Waldviertel: The far north

The Kamp Valley reservoirs are a delight at any time of year.

In spring, the Waldviertel comes to life – the ideal time for walks along the reservoirs, when the first reflections appear in the still-clear water.

In summer, the water and forests provide welcome relief from the heat: whether you’re hiking around the reservoirs, boating, paddling or fishing at the Ottenstein Reservoir. From the beginning to the end of July, the poppy blossoms transform the fields around Armschlag and the upper Kamp Valley into a spectacular display of colour.

Autumn is a time of vibrant colours and culinary festivals – such as the traditional carp-fishing festivals, where the carp takes centre stage.

Even in winter, the region has plenty to offer: frozen lakes, crisp air and the chance to go ice fishing make the far north of Lower Austria a special retreat.

From October to November, the traditional ‘Abfischfeste’ (fish-harvesting festivals) take place, during which the ponds are drained and the farmed carp are caught with nets, then sorted and prepared – whether baked, smoked or seasoned with poppy seeds. 

At Herrenteich in Litschau, some 55 km north of Zwettl, the Schrammel.Klang.Festival – also known as the ”Woodstock of Viennese song” – takes place in July. Amidst stages, jetties and meadows, music, nature and cuisine come together to form a total work of art, enhanced by freshly grilled ‘Schlosskarpfen’, cheese and hemp specialities, poppy seed products and regional wines.

It is generally possible to travel here by train and bus, for example via Zwettl, Krumau am Kamp or Rastenfeld. However, services are limited and usually involve changing trains. Public transport is not particularly recommended for spontaneous day trips or excursions.

The view from the ruins of Dobra Castle offers a stunning vista across the watery landscape. Equally rewarding are the panoramic views from the Ottenstein dam or from the cliffs on the northern shore of the Thurnberg reservoir. Those travelling further north can climb the 30-metre-high observation tower in Blockheide Nature Park, which offers sweeping views across the granite landscape – or ascend the ‘Himmelsleiter’ (Sky Ladder) in the Schrems high moor, which hovers 20 metres above the moor. Very close to the reservoirs, near the Sonnentor Erlebnis excursion destination, the SONNENTOR Herb Trail leads to the Aubergwarte near Großgöttfritz, from where, on a clear day, a sweeping panoramic view opens up across the Waldviertel as far as the Alps.

Even on rainy days, the impressive Cistercian Abbey and the Zwettl private brewery in Zwettl invite visitors to enjoy fascinating guided tours and tastings. At the UnterWasserReich Schrems, you can explore the world of moors and otters whatever the weather, whilst the SONNENTOR experience in Sprögnitz offers insights into herb production and sustainable craftsmanship. Those who’d rather stop for a bite to eat can enjoy regional specialities – from carp to poppy seed strudel – in the pubs around the reservoirs. 

The Waldviertel has a rich and distinctive flavour: potatoes, poppy seeds and herbs are as much a feature of the local cuisine as regional beers. Around the reservoirs, carp takes centre stage – baked, smoked or seasoned with poppy seeds, particularly after the autumn fishing festivals. Incidentally, the fish harvest festival has its roots in the far north, around Heidenreichstein. It is part of the Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems (GIAHS) and has been a living tradition for around 900 years, practised in harmony with nature and distinctly different from fishing and angling. 

In Armschlag, an entire village revolves around the Waldviertel grey and white poppies. As well as the typical poppy seed tarts and poppy seed noodles made from potato dough – filled with or sprinkled over with aromatic Waldviertel grey poppy seeds – the poppy village of Armschlag boasts a poppy seed nature trail, a poppy seed farm shop and, of course, the Mohnwirt Neuwiesinger. 

The famous Waldviertel dumplings, affectionately known as ‘Gummiknödel’, are a staple of every traditional pub menu. In the past, they were always made from a mixture of boiled and raw potatoes. Today’s recipes are based on a combination of boiled floury potatoes and potato starch.

Less well-known, but definitely worth trying, are the ‘Kriecherl’ – a small, intensely aromatic variety of mirabelle plum that is used in the Waldviertel to make jams, juices and fine brandies.