Waldviertel: The Far North

The Kamp Valley reservoirs are an experience at any time of year.

In spring, the Waldviertel region comes to life – the ideal time for walks along the reservoirs, when the first reflections appear in the still clear water.

In summer, the water and forests provide welcome refreshment: hiking, boating, paddling or fishing at the Ottenstein reservoir. From the beginning to the end of July, poppy blossoms transform the fields around Armschlag and the upper Kamp Valley into a colourful spectacle.

Autumn is a time of intense colours and culinary festivals – such as the traditional fish festivals, when carp takes centre stage.

Even in winter, the region has a lot to offer: frozen lakes, clear air and the opportunity for ice fishing make the far north of Lower Austria a special retreat.

One highlight is the Waldviertler Tischkultur (Waldviertel Table Culture) series of events – a showcase for regional haute cuisine, craftsmanship and provenance, accompanied by artistic staging and an atmospheric ambience. 

From October to November, the traditional fish harvest festivals take place, during which the ponds are drained and the farmed carp are caught with nets, then sorted and prepared – baked, smoked or refined with poppy seeds. 

In July, the Schrammel.Klang.Festival – also known as the "Woodstock of Viennese song" – takes place at the Herrenteich in Litschau, about 55 km north of Zwettl. Between stages, jetties and meadows, music, nature and cuisine come together to form a total work of art, refined with freshly grilled carp, cheese and hemp specialities, poppy seed products and regional wines.

It is possible to travel by train and bus, for example via Zwettl, Krumau am Kamp or Rastenfeld. However, connections are limited and usually involve changing trains. Public transport is not particularly recommended for spontaneous trips or tours.

The view from the Dobra castle ruins offers an impressive view of the water landscape. Equally rewarding are the panoramas from the Ottenstein dam or from the rocks on the north shore of the Thurnberg reservoir. If you travel further north, you can climb the 30-metre-high observation tower in the Blockheide Nature Park for a panoramic view of the granite landscape – or climb the Himmelsleiter (sky ladder) in the Schrems high moor, which hovers 20 metres above the moor. Very close to the reservoirs at the Sonnentor Erlebnis excursion destination, the SONNENTOR herb trail leads to the Aubergwarte near Großgöttfritz, from where, on a clear day, you can enjoy a panoramic view over the Waldviertel to the Alps.

Even on rainy days, Zwettl's impressive Cistercian monastery and the Zwettl private brewery invite visitors to enjoy exciting tours and tastings. At the UnterWasserReich Schrems, you can discover the world of moors and otters in all weathers, while the SONNENTOR experience in Sprögnitz offers insights into herb production and sustainable craftsmanship. Those who prefer to stop for a bite to eat can enjoy regional specialities – from carp to poppy seed strudel – in the taverns around the reservoirs. 

The Waldviertel region has a strong and distinctive flavour: potatoes, poppy seeds and herbs characterise the cuisine, as do regional beers. Carp plays a leading role around the reservoirs – baked, smoked or refined with poppy seeds, especially after the fishing festivals in autumn. Incidentally, fishing is native to the far north around Heidenreichstein. It is an agricultural world heritage and a tradition that has been practised for around 900 years in harmony with nature, which is very different from fishing and angling. 

In Armschlag, an entire village revolves around the Waldviertel grey and white poppy seeds. In addition to the typical poppy seed tents and poppy seed noodles made from potato dough, filled or sprinkled with aromatic Waldviertel grey poppy seeds, the poppy seed village of Armschlag has a poppy seed nature trail, a poppy seed farm shop and, of course, the Mohnwirt Neuwiesinger. 

The famous Waldviertel dumplings, affectionately known as "Gummiknödel" (rubber dumplings), are an integral part of every traditional pub menu. In the past, they were always made from a mixture of boiled and raw potatoes. Today's recipes are based on a combination of boiled floury potatoes and cornflour.

Less well known, but definitely worth trying, are Kriecherl – a small, intensely aromatic variety of mirabelle plum that is refined into jams, juices and fine brandies in the Waldviertel region.